J B Williams' Journey -
Homeward - the last lap

My mother said that her father had to come home from Bolivia because he was ill, which is not surprising as all his fellow-workers seem to have been ill, and several of them had died. If that was so, it could account for the lack of a diary record for the months preceding his return. He himself gives no indication at all of why he decided to return when he did.

Perhaps he had sent enough money home to maintain his little family, perhaps the ownership of the mine had changed or the price of silver was dropping and men were being sacked, or the political situation may have got stickier.

Whatever the reason, for his journey home he reverted to his meticulous daily entries and starts as usual, with no preamble or explanation.

"26 September, 1887 (Monday). Got up about 5am, packed my bed and got ready for the journey. We left about 8 and got to Agua de Castilla about 9. Stayed there to breakfast then left again and arrived at Potosi at 5pm. Should have been there before, but waited for the dog as the journey was too much for him, he never being accustomed to the road."

In his usual manner, J.B.W. does not say who 'we' were, nor how many of them were making the journey, but from later entries they appear to have included Cowling (?Joe), Reed, Harry Bennett and a 'Mr Hill'. They had apparently decided to journey over land and take ship from Buenos Aires, making the first part of the journey on mule-back over the mountains and then taking the train.

Bolivia's first railway, connecting the coast at Antofagasta in Chile with the Altiplano, was not completed until later in the decade, whereas those in Argentina began to be constructed in 1857.

There was the usual difficulty in getting started and it was Saturday, 1st October, before they set off, having eventually found a "hoss-man" from Salta, who agreed to a fee of 200 pesos.

"Saturday, 1 de Octubre (1887). Got up pretty early and packed our boxes but the hoss man did not come very early. After a lot of fuss we got away about midday. Martin, Hopkins and Tonkin came out a league or two with us. We got to this place about 9pm, Fines de Allamo, near the establemenato the Andacaba.

Sunday, 2. Got up before the sun, had some coffee and got ready for the journey. We passed a small town called Caysa about 4 leagues from where we started. The most of our journey was through the river bed. The Indians were keeping a feast all along the valley, drinking and dancing. I suppose it is the first beginning of the spring tilling. Their oxen were dressed up in flags, etc. We arrived at our stopping place about sundown, lit our fire, had some supper and went to bed. Got thrown from my mule but escaped with a little shaking.

Monday, 3/87. Got up early, had our coffee and saddled our animals and started on our journey and arrived without mishap at Kierva."

They travelled about 13 leagues a day. "the dog was near played out by the time we got here," and the weather was bitterly cold on the high passes. In several places graves surmounted by crosses lined the route, highlighting the perils lying in wait for travellers over the Andes.

"Saturday, 8/87 (October). We got up about 5 but it was bitterly cold. We had to walk to keep ourselves warm. We passed a town called Moriah and another called Mocho, then we passed a posta called Matacillos and went on to the custom house, where we left our dog as his feet was sore. They searched our boxes and then we went on again. We passed the boundary line which separates Bolivia from Argentina. We arrived at our stopping place about 5pm, lit the fire with mules' dung and had our supper and then off to bed, feeling tired.

Sunday, 9/87. I got up about 3am and after a lot of trouble lit fire and had our coffee and started. We passed a lot of dead mules and 13 graves by the road side. We made 15 leagues today.

Monday, 10/87. We got up a little before 4am. It was piercing cold so we passed down over the mountains on foot until we came to some water and a little grass. Two mules escaped last night, but we found them again in the valley. We were in the valley all day and are now camping, but we have no bread. I think it is warmer here."

Next day J.B.W. and 'Mr Hill' went on ahead of the others to a small town called Humahuacha, where they managed to buy provisions and waited for the others to catch up. The rest of that day's journey was through a blinding dust storm.

Nor did the weather improve for a while; it was bitterly cold, with thick fog (cloud?) and some of the way was through volcano wasteland.

But by 14th October things were improving "the weather beautiful and warm, and the scenery magnificent" and there were orange trees laden with fruit near the towns. They arrived at Salta about 7am on Sunday, 16th October and, having settled their accounts with the hoss man, admired the fine buildings and the cathedral and theatre.

"October 17/87. We went around the town and came in contact with Captn Penberthy, who was very free and went with us to see about changing our money, and to get animals to take us to the station."

Did they know Captain Penberthy, or was he one those adventurers waiting to hitch on to simple travellers in the hope of pickings?

They eventually fixed with a cartman to take them to the station on Thursday for "3 nationales each" and then tried to find a buyer for their saddles "but no-one seemed to care to buy, or to have no money. I don't know which."

Hiring a cartman to take them to the station was rather different from calling a taxi because the station was three days journey away, at Chilcas. They had the usual delays before starting.

"After waiting a long time till our patience was near exhausted, we started about 1pm." They camped for the night and were delayed again next day when one of the cartwheels broke. J.B.W. and the others went on to the next town, Cobo, took a wheel off their cart and went back with it to fetch the other one.

"...there is several little shanties where they sell a drink made of maize and treacle and also any amount of oranges. They say there is an Hotel here also, but have not seen it yet."

They did eventually find the hotel, the Ferro Carnel (Carril?), kept by an Italian, and had "a good substantial dinner." Next day they were forced to stop again when one of the mules fell "and near broke his leg" but eventually arrived at Chilcas about 3pm on Sunday, 23rd October, 1887. There they got their baggage labelled, found the hotel and had dinner.

"...It was pretty full but we managed to find a bedroom for the night. We had five camp beds in one room, just room to pass in and out. A lot of noise in the night."

He says nothing directly about getting the train and it is not until the third day, when yet another calamity overtook them, that we realise that they did actually board one and were on their way.

"Monday, Octr 24/87. We started a little before 7 and arrived at Tacuman about 6, where we had dinner, then started again about 7 and rode all night. We passed a lot of orange trees today and some fertile land.

Tuesday, 25/87. I scarcely slept any for the night, the car was crammed with people. Was glad when the morning dawned. We arrived here at Cordova about 5pm. Shall have dinner before we leave.

Wednesday, 26/87. We left Cordova about 8pm and everything went on all right until about 3 in the morning when without any warning, we collided with another engine. I was thrown from my seat to the floor. No-one was seriously injured, but both engines were smashed.

After a while one engine came from below and another from Leones, the station we left before the accident, and after a delay of eight hours we were enabled to start for Rosario, where we arrived about 5pm. The Company allowed our expenses at the Hotel on account of the accident. We started again near 10pm.

Thursday 27/87. We could not sleep in the car on account of so many Italians chattering and laughing all the time. We arrived at Buenos Ayres about 5am. They say that the first boat that is to leave belongs to the Royal Mail and will leave on the 1st. We shall try to go in her if we can. We went up to try to get our cheques changed but have to go again tomorrow. We went to bed early, being rather tired.

Friday, 28/87. The house is full, every bedroom, so we had to occupy 2 rooms and Cowling and myself had 2 others sleeping in the same room. I slept first rate, being very tired. This seems like a fine place, but lots of obnoxious smells about. Should not think the Sanitory Committee were very diligent. Went around the town a little. It is a large city, lots of Emigrants arriving all the time from Italy, etc."

Next day they had another try at geting their pay cheques cashed, but without any luck. They spent Sunday exploring the city "We went a long way into the City, but could see no end, or anything like...." and on Monday J.B.W. and Harry Bennett went up to the Great Southern Railway Station in the tram car, then rode a bit further and admired "some splendid gardens" and later visited the city market where all kinds of fruit "including cherries, strawberries, bananas etc" were on sale. After that they bought their passages home.

"...all being well shall leave tomorrow on board the steamship Trent, belonging to the Royal Mail Company.

Tuesday, 1st Novr/87. Got up soon after 5am, had our coffee and went out for a walk and arranged with the express to take our luggage and ourselves on board, for which we paid D8.80..."

A tender took them out to the Trent, which was lying about 15 miles offshore, and they eventually sailed on Wednesday evening, arriving at Montevideo next morning. As before, J.B.W. recorded such details of the ship as he could find out:

"Length of boat, 387 feet. Tonnage about 2000, horse power 500" but was then afflicted with "a pain in my bowels" lasting several days, which required a visit to the ship's doctor for medicine. Many other passengers were similarly afflicted, and some were seasick after a patch of dirty weather.

He did not begin to feel better until they reached Rio de Janeiro on 8th November and even then he wasn't well enough to accompany Joe, Reed, Bennetts and "another Englishman" ashore.

Early on Saturday, 12th November, the ship anchored outside Bahia. "There is a lot of bananas and pineapples for sale, also a lot of parrots."

"Sunday, 13/87. ... We arrived at Masseo about 4pm... there were a lot of parrots, oranges, bananas, watermelons, pineapples for sale. Several bought parrots but they say it is a bad time to take them home in winter. They often die of cold.

Monday, 14/87. ... We arrived here, Pernambuco about 7am. ... Bennetts and I bought 4 parrots between us..."

Until then there had been land still in sight but by next day, except for passing Fernando Island... "where they put the Brazilian convicts" they were well at sea and with a fair wind, so more sail was hoisted. J.B.W. noted the sailing vessels they passed - at least ten in three days which gives some indication of the level of activity in the Atlantic over a century ago.

"Sunday, 20 Novr./87. When we got up at daybreak we were close to land and about 6am were anchored outside St. Vincent with Cape de Verde Island on the other side of us. Several steamers are here at anchor, 3 came in today and one is just gone. We have been taking in coal all day today. There were several boats alongside with oranges, apples, bananas, etc. for sale.

One of our parrots died this morning... We left again about 3.30. The wind is blowing strong. Bennetts and I staid on deck until near 10pm, chatting and singing. An English steamboat left St.Vincent about an hour before us, but we left her behind before dark."

Off the Canaries they met rough weather - "When we went forward to wash Cowling slipped and fell on the deck. He was stunned for the time but soon got round again." and later in the day the Boatswain's mate was injured when the boat "shipped a sea".

"Thursday, 24/87... We had a death on board, a young fellow. He seemed to be in a decline. He was found dead in his bed this morning. At 1pm the Captain read the funeral service and his body was committed to the deep, after which everything went on as usual.

Saturday, 26 Novr/87. I went on deck about 2am and found we were close to land and about 5am we were anchored outside Lisbon... We left the greater part of our passengers here. They seem to be in great expectations..."

There was the usual rough passage through the Bay of Biscay with "bunks, timber and other things falling in all directions" and the weather "thick and raining in torrents" and on Tuesday, 29th November, 1887, four weeks after they left Buenos Aires, and four years and two months after he had left England:

"...Sighted the English land about 7am."

They docked in Southampton at 1pm .... "and passed the Custom House, then came here to this Hotel. It seems a nice quiet place. We had a walk up through the town. Every sort of thing for sale, nothing wanting but money.

William and myself are thinking of going down tomorrow morning if all is well. The rest have to wait for a day or two for their money. We all bought suits of clothes, but can't pay for them until we have an answer from London about the drafts...

Wednesday, 30 Novr. 1887. Got up about 6.30 and prepared to start. The train leaves about 8.30."

And here the entries end, leaving a thousand questions unanswered.

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JBW and young family

JB Williams, Mary Ann, and their surviving children
later in life

E-mail
Alan Taylor
for more information or copies of the book
Created on
14th July 2004