J B Williams' Journey -
The Mine at Tatasi

"..I was very favorably struck with the place at first sight. We have been up to see the mine with Mr Bennetts. It is a large tunnel in a mountain. There are a lot of women breaking metal on the floors. It is a very rich silver mine."

New Year's Day, 1884, in Tatasi began in bright sunshine.

"...Quite cheering to begin the new year. It is quite different from the weather we usually get in England."

They went up to the mine and saw the manager, a Mr Pascoe, and were invited to his house.

"...He seems a nice sort of fellow. There is only 3 Englishmen here besides the 2 Bosses. They are not stuck up but are just the same as the rest of us. It came to a shower of rain in the afternoon but it soon cleared again. We went to Mr. Pascoe's house in the evening to a party. Lots of music and dancing. We got home about 10.30pm."

It is not clear whether the three Englishmen meant the newcomers or three men already there, or whether the Don Juan Merrifield he mentions later was an Englishman. The bosses apparently meant Bennett and Pascoe, and 'we' included 'young ' Harry Bennett who travelled out with J.B.W. and appears to have been Mr Bennett's son.

John Prout must have travelled to Tatasi with them as next day he left to return to Huanchaca and J.B.W. went to the mine for the first time with Mr Bennett who seems to have been either a part-owner or one of the directors of the company. J.B.W. varies in his narrative between 'Bennetts' and 'Bennett'.

J.B.W. found the mine "a little different" from the Cornish mines he was used to "but no doubt will soon get used to it." He noted that the native workmen had a cross fixed in the working level, with a lighted candle burning "to protect them while working."

Next day he was awakened at 5am by the cannon used to rouse the workers and was at the mine by 7.30am with Don Juan Merrifield.

"We went down to the bottom level in the skip and our work was to put in bed plank or sliding boards in the winch which they belong sinking. They haul up the water and dirt in skin bags made for the purpose. The natives all work single hand. I got on as well as I expected after being idle for so long. We did not go home until late so I did not do much after dinner, but read a little and then went to bed."

J.B.W. often uses the word 'belong' to refer to work which is continuing. His leisure reading matter at that time was 'Practical Christianity', given to him by one of his cousins before he left England. The working hours for the Englishmen were from about 6.30am to 4pm, but J.B.W. was usually in the mine before that, and often left later.

"Friday Jan 4, 1884 ... We have two prisoners working in the mine. They are not allowed to come out until their term expires. There is two large gates at the entrance to the tunnel and it is kept locked after the men are in. They search the natives as they come out to see if they have any silver... We have been putting in a tram road today. My hands are a little sore. The schoolmaster of this place died today. The bells are ringing for him. I did not go out anywhere.

Saturday Jan 5/84 I woke just before the first cannon fired, was up to the mine at half past five. When I got out this morning was surprised to find the ground covered with snow. We got some more rails sent in but could only put in one set as the men had not cleared the level. They won't work more than they like. They have no notion of doing things unless someone is with them to show them. We got out of the mine about 4pm."

J.B.W. did not approve of Sundays in Tatasi. He was on shifts and often had to work. There was one Roman Catholic Church, and services were only held there when one of the priests came from Portugalete. But the church bells were used to summon the people if anything new for sale was brought to the Sunday market, or when the pay came in, probably by mule from Huanchaca. The only sign of Sunday was that there was usually no working in the mine during the day for the natives, but they began again at six in the evening.

He gives few details of the place where he lodged or of who cooked for them. Somebody did because later on they were without a cook and J.B.W. had to set to himself. He usually got up about five and lit the fire to make the tea before the rest were out of bed. There was either tea or coffee but, apparently, no food. 'Breakfast' was sent into the mine about 11am, and they had their dinner when they returned at 4 o'clock.

He soon found his lack of Spanish a handicap and set about picking up as much as he could. In the meantime, the workers took advantage of him.

"Jan.8th ... I had the same kind of work as yesterday, building up the pass. Feeling rather tired as my man did not care to build, so I had to do it all.

Jan.9th ... I went into the tunnel as usual, but had to continue my job which I had yesterday. My comrade did not care to do much as he was afraid, so that made it a little harder for me, but I got on all right. I am not so sore as I was some days ago.

Jan.14 ... Don Juan and myself had to go to Portugalete to secure a shaft which the natives belong sinking. It is an engine shaft from surface about 10 fathoms. They holed to some old workings and the sides began to slip in so they had to get Englishmen to secure it for them. They are very much afraid if there is danger attached to their work. We have to do most of it ourselves.

Wednesday, 16th Jan/84 ... I had 2 native men with me, but I would just as soon have had a boy at home for 25/- a month as them; they are enough to try the patience of Job. They will sit down and see you working as if it is a pleasure to them.

Jan 17/84 ... I think the natives take advantage of me because I can't speak their language, but I am getting into it by degrees, learning a little every day..."

There was nothing to do in the evenings. J.B.W. made another draughts board and he and Merrifield, or sometimes Harry Bennett, played. J.B.W. usually won, or perhaps he only recorded when he did. Sometimes he wrote letters to some of his faithful correspondents at home, or to his relatives working in Mexico and Nevada, and he kept up a regular exchange with John Prout, now in Potosi.

Sometimes he visited the other Englishmen in their rooms for a chat, but often he just sat and read a few chapters of the bible and was usually in bed by about 8.30 or 9pm. Quite frequently off-duty time, and particularly Sunday evenings, was interrupted by a message from the mine that the skip had jumped the rails, or the axle had broken, and someone would have to go and put things right.

The mine pay-out day was on Sundays, when the local market was held, and much drinking and rowdyism followed among the native population.

"Sunday, Jan.13/84 Did not get out until about 7am. The weather is beautifully fine, not a cloud to be seen. I have just been up on the mine; it is the pay. The place is full of men, women and children. The stores are open and lots of things exhibited for sale in the Plaza.

It is my 28th birthday today."

Letters from home were beginning to arrive more frequently, some had followed him from Tocopilla. It was about now that he started to list the names of people who had died back in St.Agnes since he left. Dr Whitworth (he who gave Mary Ann the puppy) was one of them. Of course J.B.W. knew practically everybody in the village and round about, but the list to modern eyes is formidable; poverty and lack of adequate medical care no doubt contributed to the high death rate in Cornwall.

In Tatasi, Mr Pascoe was ill with rheumatism and had been in bed for a week. J.B.W. also got some sort of stomach upset but "took some mixture" and managed to keep working. He recovered after a few days.

On 19th January, six young Englishmen turned up "... which proved to be 6 young men which left Tocopilla a month before I did. They have been travelling near all the time and have met with a lot of hardships of one kind and another. They saw John Prout at Potos’. He is doing very well there, washing the leavings, etc..."

Two of them went to work in another mine, 'Inche's', and the other four elected to stay at Tatasi, but did not last long.

"Monday, 21 Jan/84 ... St Agnes Feast Monday. Twelve months ago I was there, one of the speakers. Now I am thousands of miles away.

Thursday, 24 Jan/84 ... I have been at the same place working with several natives who are enough to try one's patience. I got home about 4.30. Had a very good dinner which I enjoyed very much. The old German pedlar has come again and is occupying my room to display his wares for a few days. The boys were over to Holman's this eve and Mr Pascoe also came so we were 8 English all together...

Saturday. Jan 26/84 ... We had a lot of thunder and lightning during the night and when we got up it was raining and snowing very fast. The tops of the mountains was covered with snow, while down its side was running large streams of water. It is the most rain I have seen since I have been here... Have been much better all day than have been for the week. Don't hear any news in this place. It is very monotonous. The water flooded the room I am to occupy. Must get something done to it before I can live there..."

Monotonous it may have been, but he still managed to write four letters that night, to his wife, his mother-in-law, and two of his sisters, Ellen (whose husband was in Nevada) and Carrie, his youngest sister, then aged 13, who wrote to him often.

The four new boys were put to work on 29th January driving a cross cut and sinking a winch. "Their hands are feeling pretty sore." J.B.W. had been putting in a new skip road and not getting much help from the natives but "... when I got home Mrs gave me some nice peaches which were very good. Am feeling quite robust now..."

It would be nice to know who 'Mrs' was. Possibly the wife of one of his fellow workers and, presumably, only his temporary landlady, as he was expecting to move to the room which had been flooded.

There was a lot to be done in the mine and they were now not getting home until nearly six, a twelve hour day, but by the end of the month he was managing his workmen better.

"...I have been down the shaft again today, putting in sleepers for the skip road and planks for the bag to slide over which they use in drawing water. There are four natives below with me to bore holes. I cut hitches and they are very good fellows for the hammer and willing to do anything they are told. It will take a good while before the shaft is ready for use.

Saturday, Feb 2/84 I did not get up very early, it being a feast day and no working, so I took advantage of it and lay down until after 7... After breakfast Bennett (jnr), Holman and myself went out for a bit of a walk. Had a look at the barley, which is getting on first rate, and saw the other boys. Afternoon it came to rain again and continued all day. This is a miserable place to pass a holiday as there is nothing doing. The natives get plenty of drink and carouse all day, that is how they enjoy their feast days. I went to bed about 7pm.

Sunday, Feb 3/84 ... After we had our coffee we went over as far as the Plaza. Lots of folk there selling bread, boots, fruit, earthenware, etc. Not much like Sunday. After the church bell rings for pay the natives come back to the Plaza and make their purchases. They are the dirtiest lot of beings that ever I saw in my life. I don't think they ever wash or comb their hair. No cash came to pay the Englishmen. They pay the natives with leather money. I had to go to the mine, night shift, to get on with the shaft.

Monday, Feb 4/84 ... When I got up (at about 2.30 because he had been on night shift) had a cup of tea and then read several tracts and some on the training of children by Mrs. Booth."

Was he thinking about Dora, the little daughter he had left in England? Had Mary Ann sent the tracts on child care? Mrs Booth was almost certainly Catherine Booth (1829-1890), wife of William 'General' Booth, founder of the Salvation Army. Mrs Booth had brought up a son and two daughters, all of whom carried on their parents' work, so she could be considered well qualified to write on child care.

Mr Bennett now fell seriously ill, and was unable to leave his bed. His illness, always described as 'rheumatism', proved long-lasting and, in the end, fatal.

They were putting in a new pumping engine at the mine. Meanwhile the engine was idle and the water had to be man-hauled in skin bags from the 110 metre level to the 90. The workers had to be kept hard at it to prevent the mine flooding and all the time there was danger from falling rocks, or subidence.

"Thursday, Feb 7/84 ... I had to go to my old place to put in some more stall pieces. A bit of ground turned out and caught one of the boys but fortunately he escaped with only a bleeding nose. While we were getting him out he was screaming fearful, one of the others ran away and all the others seemed very much scared. I had to go there myself to work before they would venture there again... Mr Bennett's leg and foot is very bad. He is not able to leave his bed..."

The next week, with Mr Bennett still confined to bed, Mr Pascoe was showing "a gentleman around the mine". The weather was still very wet and J.B.W. put a drain in his room "to carry off the water". It was hard work keeping the mine from flooding, and the four new boys had obviously had enough and were about to leave for Huanchaca. "I bought a wash basin and bowl and some cups off them."

"Thursday, Feb 14/84 ... We finished putting in the wood rails today. I feel pretty tired as it is strange work, and standing in the shaft all day, climbing up and down without any ladder makes one pretty sore.

Coming home from mine I saw a black kitten, the first I have seen since I have been here. There is several donkeys in the Plaza. I suppose they brought fruit...

Friday 15/84 ... Our work today was not so hard as the last two days. We were levelling the road and tightening the clamps. The natives are not keeping the water. It is rising daily. We want the water forked to put in the iron rails. They have cut a good load in the bottom which is very rich.

They have fixed a billiard table in the mine, but I don't think I shall play on it if it is for gambling. The boys left today for Huanchaca on foot. Had two donkeys to take their cargoes...

Saturday, Feb 16/84. ... We got out of the mine about quarter to five. It was fine when we came out but it soon clouded and we had some very loud peals of thunder and fierce lightning, then hail and snow and rain. It must be pretty bad for the boys going back to Huanchaca."

Peaches and grapes, presumably brought up from the valleys, were plentiful in the village at this time. "The peaches are very nice in a pie".

On Sunday he "wrote part of a letter to J.H.W. (his brother) in shorthand", which seems to have been quite popular in St. Agnes in the late 1800s as several of the family acquired the art.

In the mine the new billiard table was proving popular and "I had very little company yesterday as the boys were all up playing billiards, which is altogether out of my line." J.B.W. was moving to his new room; his bed, table and wash stand were already installed, but the first night he spent there he overslept.

"...I was woke by our cook knocking at my door. Very soon she had our tea ready and we got to mine in good time... We are taking our food together. I think I shall get on with my new cook very well. She gives us plenty of good food and I have a pretty good appetite... There is a show party come here but I don't know what they are."

The 'show party' gave a performance next night, but a thunderstorm and a bad headache gave J.B.W. an excuse not to go. He probably considered such activities too worldly anyway.

It was the beginning of the local carnival and there was to be no working in the mine for three days. Work on the shaft had to proceed at top speed so that the water could be left to rise until the workers returned.

Mr Bennett was still in bed, with rheumatism now in both legs, and Don Juan Merrifield had returned from a trip to Portugalete looking very thin. The whole town was given up to feasting and drinking.

"On Sunday, 24th February, 1884, ... several parties in the Plaza with wares exposed for sale, lots of parties drunk. Two of the show men rode through the place with men playing whistles and beating drums, not very becoming for a Sabbath day. Very little is thought of the Sabbath here. They throw a lot of water and flour over each other until they are as white as millers. It came to rain in the evening so the show people were not able to perform, so the folks were disappointed.

Monday. Got up about 7am. Was awoke several times in the night by beating of drums, rattling of bones and banjos. Went down as far as the Plaza, not much doing. I took a walk up the valley, crossed over the river and went around the side of the mountain and came up through. Saw several men and women drunk and yelling and keeping all sorts of hideous noises. A young woman called to me as I was going through the Plaza and offered me a glass of drink, which I declined to accept. I was home writing and reading all the afternoon. In the eve. Merrifield and I played several games of draughts. Retired about 8pm.

On the Tuesday... we went on the Cansha to a grand spree, as they call it, but I thought it was the most ridiculous thing I ever saw. Near everyone, men, women and children, were dancing with large jugs of drink in the middle and everyone would go forth and dip in their mug and drink. The music consisted of drums and banjos or fiddles. They were throwing flour all over us and eggs, we were more like millers than anything else. I came home pretty early, being tired..."

Next day he was sent into the mine to check the water level and someone locked the gate and he was kept prisoner for an hour and a half. Only half a dozen workers turned up, the rest were drunk, and the English boys weren't feeling too good either as a bottle of brandy had been sent over for them.

"Our boys are not feeling well after their spree, so I think I have the best of it now." The local doctor too, was laid up "through excessive drinking." By the end of the week the workers were beginning to creep back. J.B.W. survived an accident when his screwdriver slipped and he fell down through the shaft into the water, and that is all he says about it.

By the next Sunday the carnival week was finishing. "...the natives have a game they play for money by tossing a bone. Some were dancing and shouting. I suppose this will finish their carnival. Mr Bennett is still very weak. Mr Pascoe has a sore chest and throat. I have a pain in my knee. I suppose it is rheumatics... and Holman had been off for a week with a bad finger." With the doctor the worse for drink they no doubt had to do the best they could for themselves. J.B.W. was forced to work for several Sundays as Pascoe was anxious to get the new shaft finished before the water overwhelmed it.

Accidents were frequent:

"Tuesday, Mar 11/84 ... We put the car to work today on the new road and it answered well. As I was coming up in the skip with a long pipe about 24ft it caught in one of the timbers and I thought the rope would break, so I leaped out on the timbers, but fortunately it got clear without any damage, only a bit of a scare.

Wed. Mar 12/84 ... The wire rope broke, and in fixing it one of the wires stuck in my hand. It is very sore..."

By now Mr. Bennett was really ill and unable to move hand or foot without help. J.B.W. visited him most evenings and often read to him. Soon he reported Don Juan also bedbound. The mine was producing some very rich metal and "two head directors went in with Mr Pascoe" , but the water was winning and J.B.W. and Peter Walker were sent up through some old workings to another mine to see if there was any leakage. Still the water gained on them, and Peter Walker got the top of his finger "near cut off" when the skip went over with a load of metal. J.B.W. cut his hand in lifting the skip, "it is aching badly".

No health and safety regulations guarded workers then. The main difficulty at the mine was keeping the car on the rails. Nights when it only "got out" once were worthy of remark. Newspapers were now arriving from home to supplement his reading matter, and journals such as Christian Age.

"Saturday, Mar 29/84 ... I saw in the list of deaths, the death of Mary Ann, wife of Lot Brewer. I think it is my old school mistress from Trelowth, St. Austell...

Sunday, Mar 30/84 I went into the mine last night about 6pm and when I got in as far as the cross they wanted me to stop and kiss it, which I declined to do. Then they took the large cross and carried it in as far as the shaft and held a service for about an hour, saying prayers to the Holy Virgin, and singing in their way, Maria, Maria, Maria divina. They wanted me to join their service."

Justice in the mine, if there was any, was rough and ready. "One of the men was caught yesterday taking away some stones of metal, so he will be kept a prisoner for it."

Sunday, 6th April, was a pay day and "I went to the office and had 40 dollars and paid 5 to the cook."

J. P. Prout sent him a St. Agnes Plan, that is the schedule of Methodist local (lay) preachers for the season. No doubt J.B.W. poured long over that, picturing the chapels where he himself had preached so often and envying those who were taking his place back in his beloved Cornwall.

The mine closed for Easter on Thursday, 10th April, and J.B.W. spent the day visiting the sick folk.

"...Mr. Pascoe, the two Peters and myself were in seeing Bennett together. Mr. P. told about the Chilean volunteers going to the war with shackles. Mr. P. sent for Bill and I and gave us orders what to do while he is away. I have the keys of his room, to sleep there..."

Good Friday was quiet, most of the townsfolk having gone to church in Portugalete. J.B.W. took a walk, visited the sick folk, shifted his bedding to Mr Pascoe's room to act as watchdog in his absence and dined off a can of lobster brought by Peter Walker.

"We were not permitted to have any beef as it was a holy day."

He also read 100 pages of the Manual of Devotion before retiring to his new bed, which he found hard, and he was up before six next morning and walked up the hill.

"...as I was coming down met a party carrying a corpse fixed on two poles on their shoulders. They did not seem anyways affected, but trotting on as if they were going to a fair. Just before dinner I heard the Church bell ringing and went out to know the cause, and they said they were bringing over a saint from Portugalete, so I waited and saw a flock coming and one was carrying an image covered in white. I went into the Church with them. They all went on their knees, and when it was uncovered I saw the Virgin and they were going up to her and kissing her... I played several games of draughts with the German and then went to bed.

The two Peters went shooting on Easter Sunday and came back with two vicunas ... which are something like a sheep in the head but with long brown hair and very long legs, higher than a donkey, with a long neck. Their flesh is very good and their wool or hair is used by the natives to make ponchos or shawls, caps, etc."

Religious fervour had worn off by now and many of the townsmen were wandering through the streets, drunk. "Bob and his wife and baby came in and we stayed chatting for a good while". Who was Bob? This is the first mention of him, at least by his forename, and who was 'the German'? J.B.W. records only what actually happened, usually with no explanations.

Hardly any men arrived for work on Monday and at mid-day a hailstorm turned the mountains white - "the largest hail I ever saw. This place is 14,500 feet and the mountains around 2,000 more."

Frequently J.B.W. records coming home from the mine to change his clothes and then returning. Although he never says why, the most likely reason is that he had been working in water and was wet through. He was still spending much of his spare time reading to Mr Bennett, often from the West Briton and other bundles of papers sent out from home, but a call from the mine to go up and get the skip back on the track would often interrupt them.

Mr Pascoe came back after twelve days and J.B.W. returned thankfully to his own room, but soon Pascoe was off again, and there were other problems.

"Wednesday, April 23/84 ... Our cook started drinking, and got drunk and consequently we had no dinner fixd so I had to go down with Mrs Bennett."

It was two days before the cook returned "after two days on the spree". It is good to know that Mrs Bennett was around to look after the invalid. Had she been there all along, or come out when the news of his illness reached her?

Now, as well as trying to keep the nearby mine free of water and operating, they were having to fix a shaft at the Portugalete mine, travelling to and fro daily on mules when they were available. When they weren't J.B.W. had to walk. Portugalete was somewhat more civilised than Tatasi - "The telegraph wires are fixed here, suspended from top of mountain to the office." The weather was getting much colder and on Sunday, 4th May, J.B.W. wore his overcoat "for the first time since I have been here". He was also paid another 40 dollars, which seems to have been a calendar month's wages.

"Monday, May 5/84 Got up about 5.30, went to mine but could not get any mule as they are all gone to Tupisa with parties to vote for the President. Two of the head adventurers are running for the office..."

The bitterly cold weather and the journeys to and from Portugalete contributed to give J.B.W. a sore throat, which became so bad that he took two days off work, and he was not helped by the fact that the cook went off again. She came back next day but "I only got a little soup from the cook. I suppose she means to starve me. I did not have any bread for the day."

Next day, a Saturday, she was gone again and had locked up the cookhouse so J.B.W. had to do the best he could for breakfast with a tin of sardines, and go to the Bennett's for dinner.

"Monday, May 12/84 ... The old darkie cook left yesterday, and another came today from Portugalete. She seems pretty decent but I don't know how she will get on. She had her goods brot over on donkeys' backs.

Tuesday, May 13/84 We got through the shaft at Portugalete for the first time and went down to see the town. It is a pretty large place and the shops contain all kinds of wares. I bought a new hat for 6 dollars."

The new cook started off well, although morning tea was late, but she sent in a good breakfast to the mine and produced a good dinner when they got out. Mr Bennett, still very unwell, was "thinking of leaving for the lower parts on Wednesday if all is well..."

"Wednesday, May 21/84 Got up as usual and went to mine. Bill was in the mine in the night as the car went off the rails. After breakfast the car got off in the water and it turned over and over again. We had hard work to get it right and I slipped down the shaft into the water but escaped unhurt. Mr. Bennett was taken away today, hope he will soon get better and return to us again."

Both the skip road and the pumps were causing endless trouble, and many hours were spent in repairing them.

"Sunday, May 25/84 I was called about 7am to go into the mine as the pumps were out of order. So I went in and fixed one but the other was broken, so all being well Don Pedro and I will go in this evening to see what can be done by it. It is not much like Sunday today. A party went by just now to put some cocks to fight, a shameful and cruel practice... I paid two dollars to get my boots soled. Mr Pascoe is expected back today but I have not heard that he has arrived yet..."

Mr Pascoe actually arrived next day, after having been away four weeks. He came into the mine the day after "with two others" and seemed pleased with the load they were cutting in the new shaft.

"Sunday, June 1/84 ... All the men in the mine are gone to fit up the roads. There are certain days in the year they have to work free to pay their rent. One of the carpenters was drinking instead of working, so he is put in the mine, a prisoner.

Monday, June 2/84 night I drempt I was preaching, but when I awoke I found I was still in the same place... Received a letter from C. Batten saying that J. Inch was blasted at Tocopilla."

Inch was one of the young men who travelled out with J.B.W. on the Galicia, and took work in the mines at Tocopilla. Later (July 5th) J.B.W. records that "poor young Inch is gone to England, quite blind."

Although he seldom complained, the monotony of his life was beginning to tell. Nine or ten hours each weekday in the mine, with little to do in the evenings except play draughts, write letters, mend his clothes, which by now were probably in need of it, and read sermons or similar literature, were punctuated by Sundays when there was even less to do. J.B.W.'s non-conformist conscience would not usually allow him to play draughts on Sunday although he had, perforce, to do a little housework. The weather was no help.

"Sunday, June 8/84 I did not get up until near 10 clock as the wind was blowing fearful. I had to close my door and light a candle, the dust was blowing in clouds and the air was full of it. It was like a mist. It obscured the sun. I never saw the like of it before. I read near two Christian Ages.

Sunday, June 15/84 Got up a little before 8am, had some tea and cleaned up the house, after which I went down to see Peter and stayed a good while until breakfast, then read two sermons from C.Age and Peter came up here. Bill had to go in the mine about the pump. I had several of the boys here in the evening. I shall soon be off to bed as it is after 7pm.

Thursday, June 19/84... Got out (of the mine) about 4.30pm. Wrote some poetry 'My Wife'. Then did some shorthand, then wrote some Spanish and English..."

Mr Pascoe had returned and was about to go off again. In the light of future entries it seems possible that the mine was up for sale, and Pascoe may have been visiting potential customers or employers.

The weather continued rough, and bitterly cold, and the dust was blinding. The first snow fall on 27th June marked the beginning of winter. Most of the other Englishmen had been suffering with bad colds and various other minor ailments. There was always someone off work and, at the end of the month, Mr Pascoe too was taken sick.

There was more trouble with the cook. J.B.W. does not say what happened but it looks as though she had run off with the cooking equipment and been apprehended.

"...Our cook returned the tools so I suppose we shall have to cook ourselves. Bot (bought) a saddle of Bob for 25 dollars. Had some dinner with Peter and then came home and went to bed pretty early."

More than half a month's wages seems a lot for a saddle, but perhaps it compares well with prices today. J.B.W. shifted as best he could for a day or two.

"Took a can of sardines and some bread for my breakfast. Came home and roasted a herring for my dinner and got on first rate..."

and then gave his mind properly to the problem.

"Sunday, July 6/84 Got up about 8am. Went down and had breakfast with Peter and then came up and bot some beef and other things for cooking. Had roast beef and potatoes for dinner, then made some stew for tomorrow, then read the Christian Age..."

The stew was presumably for 'breakfast' as next day he "got a beef steak and some fried potatoes for dinner, which I enjoyed very much." He soon got into the swing of cooking ahead for the next day's breakfast, "boiled a pot of potatoes for tomorrow", but cooked his evening meal, often beefsteak, when he got home from work. He enjoyed his own cooking, but perhaps he overdid it because after a week he writes "my bowels are not very well".

One of the native workmen was taken ill in the mine and died by 10pm. "They can't stand any disease." and the next week another came out of the mine saying that he had seen a ghost and refusing to work any more. J.B.W.'s relationship with the workers had improved considerably.

"...I was the only foreigner in, but get on well with the natives.

Sunday, July 20/84 Got out about 9am, had some breakfast and went down to see Peter as he has a bad toe, then we came up to the Plaza. What a clamour there is with the natives over buying and selling. Don Juan Merrifield arrived this evening and is looking much better than when he left. He was away 3 months. He don't give much hopes of the recovery of the old man, Henry Bennett. It will be sad for him to die down there, away from all his friends...

Tuesday, July 22/84 ... There are 2 or 3 funerals today of infants, a lot of them dying. A party has just passed, singing and dancing, returned from the funeral. They keep up the fandangle all night... I received a book in shorthand from J.H.N.Williams.

Wednesday, July 23/84 ... Bill and Peter were out killing the old man's pigs. One weighed 43 lbs and the other 48. The old man is very sick. Harry (his son) is going down to see him tomorrow.

Thursday, July 24/84 ... Bill did not come in until breakfast time as he stayed out to see the boy Harry off down to his Father. I got out about 4.30. Bot 15 lbs of pork and had some fried, which I enjoyed much."

The native population was suffering from some sort of epidemic. "There are a lot of children dying here every day. A man was buried today... Peter cut my hair and I cut his..."

Mr Pascoe went off to Tupisa for two or three days. "He will soon be leaving for good....." says J.B.W. but gives no explanation. Two Italians arrived at Tatasi and "I lent 6 dollars to Bob Ferguson."

The end of July brought another feast day. As in Britain before annual holidays for workers became law, church feasts gave the only opportunity for time off, and people made the most of them.

"Thursday, July 31/84 ... This evening they had a grand procession of candles and other fixings and putting off of fireworks. They were headed by a boy carrying a drum on his back and another beating it. Then they brot out an image of our Saviour in a grand frame and decorated off in splendid style and took it to church. On the tower they had several large candles lit which illuminated the place. They are still beating the drum and putting off powder balls..."

The festivities went on for another two or three days.

"Friday, August 1/84 ... In the evening they lit several large fires in the Plaza and several large ornamental lanterns up in front of the church. Lots of music and dancing, if music it may be called, a drum and some kind of string instrument and some wood whistles...

Saturday, Aug 2/84 ... There was a grand display. The saints were brogt out of the church and fixd on stands made on purpose and trimmed with white muslin. Then the Priest came along and burned incense in front of them with all the people kneeling on the ground. It was a feast for the prosperity of the mines. They had one altar erected in front of the tunnel. All that did not bow in front of the altar were counted heathens.

Monday, Aug.4/84 ... Just as we left work P. Walker and 2 other men and 4 or 5 women came into the mine and brot a lot of chica with them. We soon left and got out soon after 4... Coming home near got trapped by two lewd women..."

Life ground slowly on, with "nothing new occurred" appearing more and more frequently in the diary, though on August 12th he "found two letters from home with Dora's and Carrie's pictures in them".

This is the first mention of his little daughter, now over a year old. Carrie was his youngest sister, by now aged about 14.

J.B.W. wrote his 'Wise Maxims' in the back of the 1884/86 diary at about this point, though whether he copied them from somewhere, or collected them from his own experiences, is not clear.

• Make few promises.
• Always speak the truth.
• Never speak ill of anyone.
• Keep good company or none.
• Live up to your engagements.
• Never play at any game of chance.
• Drink no kind of intoxicating liquors.
• Good character is above everything else.
• Keep your own secrets if you have any.
• Never borrow money if you can possibly help it.
• Do not marry until you are able to support a wife.
• Keep yourself innocent if you would be happy.
• When you speak to a person look him in the face.
• Make no haste to be rich if you would prosper.
• Ever live (misfortune excepted) within your income.
• Save when you are young to spend when you are old.
• Avoid temptation through fear. You may not withstand it.
• Never run into debt unless you see a way to get out again.
• Small and steady gains give competency with a tranquil mind.
• Good company and conversation are the sinews of virtue.
• Your character cannot be essentially injured except by your own acts.
• If anyone speak ill of you, let your life be so that none will believe him.
• When you retire to bed think over what you have been doing during the day.
• Never be idle; if your hands can't be employed usefully, attend to the cultivation of your mind.
• Read over these maxims carefully and thoughtfully at least once every week.

Tatasi. August 22/84 J. B. Williams

At the end of August, 1884, Mr Pascoe was making a plan of the mine, and a few days later was in the mine "with the head boss. I think Mr Pascoe gave up his charge today." but he actually stayed around for another couple of weeks. A man next door to Peter Walker died:

"...They made a coffin for him. The first I have seen here. Peter Walker and another man fired 4 shots of their rifles, so Peter won the rifle..."

The mine at Tatasi

• Home Page
• Family and Background
• Mary Ann's Father
• Her Mother
• Her Home
• A Soul To Be Saved
• Her return to Cornwall and her marriage
• JBW - Leaving Europe
• Arriving in South America
• The Coast of Chile
• In Tocapilla, Chile
• Over the Andes to Bolivia
• Working the Porco Mine
• Homeward through Argentina

Site of Tatasi