J B Williams' Journey -
In Tocopilla, Chile

Although J.B.W. had been enticed to South America by a promise of work in the mines he was not without hope that he might find something less arduous, possibly in a store where his shopkeeping experience could be useful. But his lack of Spanish probably told against him.

"Monday, Nov.19, 1883 Got up about 5am and about 7 we had some tea and butter and then went out for a walk. Went as far as C & K Stores and saw Mr Bennetts, then we went to see Knucky who offered us all work in the mines. Then we went to see Capt.Tredinnick who also offered us work on tribute. No chance in stores as yet. I must go in for the language as soon as I can.

'Tribute' was the system where a portion of the ore, or its equivalent in money, was granted to the miner for his labour, in lieu of wages, which was fine as long as the price of the metal remained high, but not so good when prices fell.

Tocopilla must have lacked a natural water supply as the friends watched the machinery "condensing the sea water and making if fit for use... that is all the people drink here... Two of the boys, Bunch and Inch, had accepted jobs in the mines near Tocopilla under Carne & Knuckey and went off to inspect the place where they were to work.

"...I expect I will be going to Huanchaca with Mr Baily in a few days. I hear it is pretty rough travelling across the Andes."

Next day the boys who had 'settled' were buying what they needed at the stores. J.B.W. went round visiting "some of the Cornish houses" and they were invited for the evening to the house of a Mr and Mrs Higgins, who had an orguinette.

"I took the music of mine with me and we had a lot of playing and singing. They have two children. They are handsome little things. One is called Thetis, because she was christened on board H.M.S. of that name."

He haunted the stores for the next few days but on 23rd November a letter arrived from his brother-in-law, J. P. Prout (the 'Brother Johnny' of Mary Ann's diaries) who was working in the Huanchaca area, telling J.B.W. to join him. The cart was due to leave that evening and there was a great panic to get ready. However:

"...We shan't be able to leave until ten days as the man is too heavy loaded. In the evening I had a walk with Mr Peters and young Ninnis, then we went to see Mr and Mrs Faull......Just after I got home I felt a slight earth shock. The room shook and all the glasses in the house were in motion..."

He filled in the next ten days until the cart came back as best he could, calling on all the Cornish families until they must have been tired of the sight of him, and hiring a horse and riding up the valleys to the mountains to see the mines. He found the valleys bare and sterile and the miners kind and welcoming, but too fond of drink, "no signs of spiritual life". He bought a fishing line and caught a lot of fish from the wharf, although he does not say whether he ate them.

"...They are very much like herrings. They come in close in shoals. We throw in the hook and give it a pull. They are so thick you are almost sure to hook one or more... Mrs Faull gave me a bit of flannel to bind around my knee as I have been suffering from rheumatic for several days... It is a dull place for one to pass his time without company. The only birds I see here are large something like turkeys. They are on carcasses and refuse. People are not allowed to kill them..."

On Friday, 30th November, he went to the wharf to watch the mail boat and was overjoyed to get a letter from home.

"...How anxious folks so far away are to get a letter from home. How it did cheer me, as it was near ten weeks since I heard any home news.... After breakfast I went up to Buena Vista (the mine) to see the boys. They are getting on pretty well but don't like cooking their own victuals..."

He noted a cemetery with many crosses, where the victims of a smallpox outbreak three years before were buried, and was shown the yard where 200 mules were kept.

"...They are very fine animals, and useful for this country. The horses are kept chiefly for riding."

The fish shoals had departed and he was very bored. By this time he was "the only one left of our party". However, Sunday, 2nd December, was more interesting.

"Got up about 6.30. It is a beautifully fine morning. I went down to see the folks going to church. It was one of their saints days. A lot of women and several men went in. As soon as they entered they went to the font and dipped their finger in the water and made a cross on their foreheads and then went in and knelt on the floor. The ladies were carrying a bit of fancy velvet or a cushion to kneel on. They are very devout in their way. The priest always has a smoke after his meals.

In the afternoon we went over to Mr. Evans room to a prayer meeting and enjoyed it very much. We were 7 present. After that we went on the beach for a walk and then came back to dinner, after which I went to chapel and conducted the service. I took for my text Proverbs 1 chap, 24, 25 and 26 verses. Had a pretty good time. There were about 40 persons present. The attention was very good..."

Next chapter - Over the Andes to Bolivia
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Tocopilla

The town of Tocopilla

E-mail
Alan Taylor
for more information or copies of the book
Tocopilla Coast

Cost near Tocopilla

Tocopilla

Tocopilla from the sea

Tocopilla Plant

Electric Plant, Tocopilla, 1915

Created on
2nd July 2004